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📐 Miter Angle Calculator

This miter angle calculator finds the cut angle for joining trim, molding or frame stock at any corner. For a two-piece joint the miter is simply the corner angle divided by two; for a closed frame with n equal sides it is (180 − 360/n) ÷ 2. The calculator also reports the complementary saw setting, since many miter saw scales read from square (0° = a 90° crosscut).

Last reviewed: 2026-07-07

Miter angles for common corners and frames

These follow directly from the bisection rule and regular-polygon geometry; the saw-setting column applies to scales that read 0° at a square cut.

SituationCorner angleMiter angleSaw setting (from square)
Standard wall corner90°45°45°
Out-of-square corner88°44°46°
Bay window wall (135°)135°67.5°22.5°
Square/rectangular frame (n=4)90°45°45°
Hexagonal frame (n=6)120°60°30°
Octagonal frame (n=8)135°67.5°22.5°
  • Miter saw scales differ: most compound miter saws read 0° at a square crosscut (use the saw-setting column), while protractors and some layout tools measure the full cut angle from the workpiece edge. Confirm which convention your tool uses before cutting.
  • This calculator covers flat miters. Crown molding installed 'nested' against the fence uses the same numbers, but cutting crown flat on the saw table requires compound (miter + bevel) settings derived from the crown's spring angle — a separate calculation.

What is a miter angle?

A miter joint joins two pieces at a corner by cutting each piece at half the corner angle, so the two cut faces meet in a seam that bisects the corner. The everyday case is a 90° corner — each piece is cut at 45° — but real rooms are rarely perfect: an out-of-square corner measuring 88° needs two 44° cuts, and a bay-window wall meeting at 135° needs two 67.5° cuts. Cutting each piece at exactly half the measured corner angle is what makes the seam close without a gap.

Closed frames follow the same principle applied around a polygon. A frame with n equal sides has interior corner angles of 180 − 360/n degrees, so each end of each piece is cut at half that: (180 − 360/n) ÷ 2. A rectangular picture frame (n = 4) needs 45° cuts, a hexagonal frame (n = 6) needs 60° cuts, and an octagonal frame (n = 8) needs 67.5° cuts.

How to use this miter angle calculator

  1. For a corner joint, measure the actual corner angle with a protractor or angle finder and enter it — do not assume 90°.
  2. Leave the number of pieces at 2 for a corner joint, or enter the number of sides for a closed frame (the corner-angle input is ignored for frames, which use the polygon geometry).
  3. Read the miter angle — the angle of the cut measured from the edge of the workpiece.
  4. If your saw's scale reads from square (0° = straight crosscut), use the saw-setting figure instead: 90° minus the miter angle.

The formula behind miter angles

Miter (two pieces) = Corner angle ÷ 2
Frame corner angle = 180° − 360° ÷ n
Miter (n-sided frame) = (180° − 360° ÷ n) ÷ 2
Saw setting from square = 90° − Miter

A miter joint bisects the corner: each of the two pieces is cut at the corner angle divided by 2. For a closed frame of n equal sides, the interior angle of a regular polygon is 180 − 360/n degrees, and each cut is half of that. The saw setting reported is the complement (90° − miter) for saws whose scale reads zero at a square crosscut.

Worked examples: a standard 90° corner needs two cuts of 90 ÷ 2 = 45°. A hexagonal frame (n = 6) has corners of 180 − 360/6 = 120°, so each end is cut at 120 ÷ 2 = 60° — which is a 30° setting on a from-square saw scale.

Common mistakes

  • Assuming room corners are exactly 90° — drywall corners are commonly a degree or two off, and splitting the measured angle is what closes the joint.
  • Confusing the miter angle with the saw setting — a 60° miter is a 30° setting on a saw scale that reads from square; cutting at the wrong one leaves a 30° gap.
  • Dividing 360 by the number of sides and using that as the cut angle — 360/n is the exterior/central angle, not the cut; the cut is half the interior angle.
  • Using flat-miter numbers for crown molding laid flat on the saw — crown cut flat needs compound miter-and-bevel settings that depend on its spring angle.

Frequently asked questions

What miter angle do I cut for a 90 degree corner?

Cut each piece at 45° — half of the 90° corner angle. On virtually all miter saw scales this is the marked 45° detent.

What angle do I cut for a 135 degree corner?

Half of 135° is 67.5° per piece. On a saw whose scale reads from a square crosscut, that is a 22.5° setting — a marked detent on many saws precisely because 135° corners (bay windows, octagons) are common.

What miter angle for a 6-sided frame?

A regular hexagon has interior corners of 180 − 360/6 = 120°, so each piece end is cut at 60° (a 30° from-square saw setting). Both ends of every piece get the same cut.

Why doesn't my 45° miter close on a real wall corner?

Because the corner is not exactly 90°. Measure the actual corner with an angle finder and cut each piece at half the measured value — an 88° corner needs 44° cuts. For inside corners on baseboard, many finish carpenters cope the joint instead of mitering, precisely because coping tolerates out-of-square walls.

What is the difference between a miter and a bevel?

A miter is an angled cut across the width of the board (the saw swings left or right); a bevel is an angled cut through its thickness (the blade tilts). Flat trim corners need only a miter; crown molding cut flat needs both at once — a compound cut.

References

  1. Standard Euclidean geometry — interior angle of a regular n-gon: 180° − 360°/n; a mitered joint bisects the corner angle.
  2. Miter saw manufacturer manuals (e.g., DeWalt, Makita, Bosch) — saw scale conventions, detents at 22.5°/31.6°/45°, and compound-cut settings for crown molding.
  3. Finish-carpentry trade references (e.g., Gary Katz, Finish Carpentry) — mitering vs. coping practice for trim corners.

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